The day I decided to move to Santiago . . .

Day 1

Concha y toro tour

Jumbo Supermarket

Pio Nono

Providencia-Las Condes

When your day starts with a wine tour of one of the best wineries in the country you’re staying and maybe one of the best in the world, it’s probably going to be a good day. When you get to drink the equivalent of about 2 bottles of some of their best wine with a cheese accompaniment for a total of $55 (his was for all 3 of us) before 2 in the afternoon, it’s getting dangerously close to utopian terms. When this is followed up by a trip to a giant supermarket with an amazing selection of wine, cheese, vegetables, seafood, and other tantalizing goods, all for a very reasonable price, it’s time to consider a lifestyle change. And when all of this is taking place in a city flanked by 5000m snow-capped peaks of the Andes on one side, and the Pacific Ocean only 90 minutes away, and dotted by old colonial architecture mixed in with daring modern design, it’s time to consider taking Spanish lessons while in Korea and moving to Santiago at some point in your life.

Other great things about the day included all the punk as fuck/metal kids we saw about town. One of them, while drunk, even walked up to me and slapped me on the back while yelling “Gringo! Gringo! GRINGO!” to try to get a laugh from those sitting outdoors drinking beer nearby.

The whole place is strangely reminiscent of Korea. I can’t quite place why, but Sue and Jung-Eun agree. The cost of living seems to be fairly similar and some of the same Eastern Bloc style architecture is also occasionally seen. It’s better because of the mixing in of nicer architecture and also the more cosmopolitan feel. Maybe I just like both and therefore equate them. Or maybe I just love emerging economies.

I learned a ton on the wine tour. I learned about how American and French oak age wine differently. I learned how the “aromas” we smell in wine are generally false and based on familiarity. I learned that Carmenere, the wine that Chile is famous for, was thought to be merlot when originally imported from France over 100 years ago, but that a Frenchman visiting the winery in 1994 revealed that it was actually Carmenere, and this was a huge stroke of good luck because a plague had wiped out that grape worldwide save for here in Chile, Cyprus, and South Korea (!?). This lead to the thriving of the Chilean wine industry, and specifically the winery we visited, Concha y Toro.

Day 2

Santa Lucia

San Cristobal (Virgin)

Parque Forestal

La Chascona

Day 3

Valparaiso

Playa San Mateo

Caleta El Membrillo

Sebastiana

Museo a Cielo Abierto

Caro Santo Domingo y Concepcion

These past 2 days have further reminded me that Santiago is a great city, and that, yes, I would like to live here. If that happens remains to be seen, but the city itself (and its neighbor to the west, Valpairaso) have had a great effect on me.

The amount of parks and outdoor space here is fantastic. We spent our second day exploring these outdoor spaces by climbing Santa Lucia, an old fortress and church in the middle of the city on top of a hill. It was built by the Spanish to protect it from the native invaders and has something to do with Charles Darwin. I was a little “tired” from all the fantastic wine we drank the night before while exploring this place, so forgive my lack of info. We also climbed an even bigger hill to get to San Cristobel, where a statue of the Virgin Mary stands, overlooking the city. It was fairly busy ( we went on Saturday), but still had a great deal of charm, and the view of the city was great, although we were reminded of the pollution by the sheet of smog covering the city.

We also had a chance to explore 2 of Pablo Neruda’s houses while in Chile, one on Santiago and one in Valpairaso. I don’t want to bore anyone with a lesson on Neruda’s life, but, as a poet, consul, politician, and reformer born in poverty, he lived well. It was interesting to learn about how his life was so closely related to many important events in Chilean history and to see his bizarre and playful style (he loved boats so all his houses are designed with boat parts and narrow passages) in his houses. I’m going to seek out some more info on him, but for now, I’ll say that if you ever make it Chile, make it a point to visit one or more of his houses.

Yesterday, we took a day trip to Valpairaso and got a chance to explore this very unique city. The city is built from the seashore up onto the hills rising next to it. This makes for fantastic natural geography mixed with inventive architecture. It’s almost as if 2 separate cities exist, one on the water, and one in the hills, with both connected by a beautiful view of the sea. The part of the city in the hills (including Concepcion and Santo Domingo) is considered a UNESCO world heritage site, and it’s no wonder due to the bright, almost Creole architecture. The area also feels very friendly, with a huge number of the cities’ inhabitants (of all backgrounds) living high into the hills. Near the water, we had a chance to sample Congria (Conger eel) along with mixed ceviche and neither disappointed. Overall, a great city that has to be visited if you’re in Chile.

The day ended with disappointment as the Browns looked like crap again, but at least I got to watch it on TV here. I can drown my sorrows in Malbec wine and beef once we hit Buenos Aires. We’re off later this afternoon.